Last month, hoping to coax sweater weather’s arrival, I finally made a Mile End Sweatshirt. The pattern had released in March as part of the Montreal Collection. The unique style lines of the sweatshirt and the interesting pocket construction of the joggers were irresistible to my pattern- (and fabric) collecting heart. (The joggers from the same collection were previously reviewed here on Pattern Review.)

Then this month, I found myself unable to resist the Stanton Hoodie just released by Cashmerette. Again, it was the unique style lines (coupled with a 20% off coupon code* from Helen’s Closet) that sealed the deal. Since the weather had finally decided to commit to fall, I didn’t dawdle on making one.

Then I felt quite compelled to put Mile End and Stanton side by side for a bit of compare and contrast exercise. Why exactly? (That’s what I keep asking myself as I’m telling myself I must finish this post and not let it slide into the abandoned drafts column.) They might be more different than similar. Maybe it’s just for the sake of sharing two makes in one post?

Now, both projects were individually shared on Pattern Review, so I won’t be repeating everything in the general reviews I already posted (Mile End, Stanton). I will be looking closer at a few of their components; the shoulder and sleeve, hood, and pocket.

Quick note- Mile End and Stanton are not what I would consider beginner hoodie patterns. They each have a few more bells and whistles making them anything but basic. That said, both have excellently illustrated and well-detailed instructions so I think they can be taken on by fearless beginners.

Sizing

Both patterns are available in comparable “inclusive” size ranges**; 0-20 and 14-32 (D cup) for Mile End versus 0-16 and 12-32, with three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H) for Stanton.

My samples are both size 8. (Based on approximate body measurements- 35/37”, 30”, 39”; 5’5’ tall.)

Style Lines

Look at all these lines, people! These both have fabulous details and can be “scrap-busting” projects. Mile End does not have a zip-up option, but does have the simple pop-over view (A, no hood) and an additional hem variation (B) with gathered ties. On Stanton, we have the choice to have a zipper or not, and the pocket is optional. A simple neckband in place of the hood, is not included, but can be drafted easily enough. (Here’s a tutorial discussing in detail how to draft and attach neckbands.)

Shoulder and Sleeves

Mile End has a noticeably dropped shoulder with oversized, two-piece, cuffed sleeves. The front sleeve also features two elbow darts!

I’m not sure anyone will ever appreciate those darts, except the three, maybe four, folks who read this. And you might only be able to spot them since they have been top-stitched.

On the other hand, Stanton features simpler, set-in sleeves, that are also cuffed. (Note- the cuff is drafted for rib.)

But those lovely shoulder yokes, swoon!

The yoke is not an overlay or patch that can be skipped; it’s an odd-looking bit on its own. Make sure to transfer those markings or you may get tripped up here.

Hoods

The hood is rather unique on Mile End. It’s a single piece with a seam running down the back only. It’s somewhat hard to describe as I haven’t truly seen anything like it. I can’t decide if there’s any advantage to this style; I guess it’s smooth and flat over the top of the head. **shruggie**

The hood is not lined. Disguise, fancy-up, or neatly finish that back seam if you care about it being exposed,

The hood is hemmed after it is joined with the cross-over fronts. There’s no intention for the hood to have a drawstring and no markings for the holes that would require.

Stanton features a smart 3-piece, lined hood. I appreciate that all the seams are nicely enclosed and the drawstring casing is created by the lining turning the outer hood to the inside. This does essentially double the fabric and weight of the hood (the instructions suggest using light knits, such as ITY, for the lining.)

Kangaroo pockets

Pockets are key. Très important!

Cashmerette’s pocket is a good inch taller than Closet Core’s. Big pockets are always preferred over smaller ones but on the front of hoodies one can run into the territory where one’s mammary glands fall.

Sure this zone varies by height, mammary mass, and time. It’s a moving target. But keep them pockets clear, please.

Mile End’s kangaroo pocket is incorporated nicely into the forward-slanted side seam and it conceals the seams where the cross-over fronts join. As such, it cannot be omitted from this view, but I don’t see a reason it couldn’t be added on the over views.

Stanton’s pocket is fully lined. It’s a lovely design aspect, but also a possibly unnecessary one. The outer fabric is turned an inch to the inside of the pocket where it meets its lining. It looks very neat. But it’s the inside of a pocket! The pocket lining mostly just adds bulk (5 layers of fabric top-stitched versus 4 if the lining is omitted) to the seam running across the front mid-section.

There’s also a significant design flaw here. The pocket is completely open at the sides. It’s a hand-muff, really. But there’s a simple fix. An inch and a half or so of stitching the pocket to the lower front and suddenly the pocket contents have a fighting chance of staying put. (Yes, my phone escaped the “pocket” straightaway before I noticed this oversight.) I add the extra stitching right over the pocket’s top stitching, but it would be best to add it during construction before the bottom band is in place.